I recently came across an article on the subject of finding a music teacher. I’ve always kept that topic as the front page of www.guitarstyles.org, but the opinions provided by the artists below offer extra insight. This is a quick read, but worth some thought if you’re considering a lessons program.
I took private guitar lessons during the late 1980’s. My experience as a student had me in an entirely different environment than the one I currently teach in. Guitar Tablature had not fully been an accepted form of notation (although it is arguably the most accurate), educational resources were not as readily available as they are today, teaching methods were often dry and uninteresting. The location where I learned guitar was drastically different. Instead of a first class studio overlooking a tidal estuary, as a I currently reside, I was attending lessons in a section of a city that was vaguely crime ridden and located just a 1/2 block away from an adult movie theater in a room that was filled with cigarette smoke as common custom encouraged the habit in basically every situation.
My field of study with the guitar focused on jazz music, so I learned a limited amount of rock songs. I spent the majority of my time reviewing a large variety of jazz concepts and technical skills, both conceptually and in real life situations. I applied my learned knowledge to jazz standards. Below, I’ve provided to the general public scanned versions of all the material that I used in my private lessons program, for either study or interest.
As noted in prior blogs, I’ve made all of my guitar teaching lesson plans available at no cost to other interested parties. One thing I haven’t done is provide the general public with instructional videos that might help with learning the instrument. The youtube video linked below is my first attempt to create an educational video on playing guitar. If you are an absolute beginner, I would suggest the song that is profiled in this video “The Movie Soundtrack for JAWS” as your first attempt to learn something on guitar. As you can see, I left myself lots of room for improvement, but the content is accurate, and hopefully aspiring players find it useful. Rock On!!!!
Here are a few songs that have very simple melodies. I find the arrangements work great when teaching younger students. The songs are easy…. they give students confidence and a sense of accomplishment. You can download example below with audio attached at this link:
I usually hesitate to acquire the latest technological gadgets. The reason for my delayed response is often financial, but I am also the type of person who avoids unnecessary “improvements”. Things that work don’t need replacements! I am still using Windows XP on most of my personal computers (except of course my Apple). On my website, I have limited audio recommendations to software items that support the XP operating system:
In 2011, a few of my family members gave me an iPad as a gift. At first I was very hesitant, as I like to have full control of the behavior of my computer systems. iOS has lots of limitations in that regard. I managed to put that personal requirement aside, and I embraced the iPad for it’s full potential. The iPad and it’s relatives provide musicians with incredible resources at an affordable price. Here is a list of music apps that I use regularly, and I highly recommend to students and other musicians who want to use their devices to enhance their learning experience.
A good tuner for both band instruments and guitar is Pano Tuner. It is FREE and it responds very well to the sound in the room. Many tuners respond to overtones and give false readings, but this one doesn’t have that problem.
Change Tempo and Pitch
Slowing down music and changing the pitch of what you are hearing is an essential learning tool for any instrumentalist. Slow Down Music Player (SDMP) is my favorite, but JamUp XT is a close second with extra features for guitarists such as recording capabilities, amp simulation, and sample loading. Both items are FREE, but the display for SDMP is only iPhone/iPod Touch compatible, so it lacks resolution. JamUp XT attempts to up-sell the consumer, but the nag screens and are limited and the free version is quite functional.
Slow Down Music Player
All musicians should regularly practice with a metronome. There are tons of excellent FREE apps in this department, but one of my favorites is Pro Metronome. It supports odd time signatures and you can change the sound of the click. It can be a hassle because it offers “hidden” up-sells for more wacky options like odd subdivisions, and visual enhancements, but once you figure out the limitations, it’s easy to avoid those features.
Metronomes can be a monotonous way to improve rhythm skills, so I highly recommend practicing with a drum beat/machine. I have not found a free app that provides a large variety of patterns where the user can control the speeds/tempos, but I have discovered a couple of FREE apps that provide a limited number of drum examples for a musician to play along with, albeit with caveats. Drum Beats has fifty patterns to choose from but it displays flashing advertisements if your device is connected to the outside world and its display has limited resolution in order to keep it compatible with the iPhone/iPod touch. The audioBase.com Sample Player has modern drum/instrumental loops, but no “simple” beats are available, thus making the tracks sound a bit cluttered. Groove Bank provides the musician with a good selection of beats and it offers a large variety of tempos, but the user must sort thru “locked” examples to avoid being up-sold. bleep!Box Player is designed like a traditional drum machine/sequencer (it’s not just a loop player). It gives you editable pre-programmed examples, but the free version does not allow you to save edits, so if you wanted to practice with a basic beat, you would have to do a quick edit every time you open the product.
audioBase.com Sample Player
Music Production/Recording Studio
All the apps listed above, in one form or another, are necessary tools for any musician who is aspiring for improvement. Notice they are all free. The one app whose value far outweighs its cost is Garageband. If anything, the recording studio app made by Apple has too many features. The interface is as intuitive as a piece of software this complicated can be. Excellent sounding tracks can be produced with this app, and for $5 it’s the deal of a lifetime. Unfortunately, Apple recently changed its pricing scheme on this product and made the app free with a $5 charge to unlock all of its features. In-App-Purchase requirements are always less desirable because they prevent the purchaser from installing the full featured version of the app on multiple devices.
There are many other recording and music production apps that are outstanding. A few that I have had positive experiences with are: Synthstation, Djay, Fruit Loops Studio, Thumbjam, Music Studio, Groove Maker, Studio Track, MultiTrack, Tabletop, AudioShare, Wavepad, Traktor DJ, and iSequence. One important app that makes it possible to run multiple production apps together in tandem/unison is Audiobus.
Keep in mind, the apps listed above are current products in good standing as of late 2013, but that can change quickly. App developers often make updates to their software….. for better or for worse. It is important to have the ability to revert to a previous version of an app in order to avoid bad updates. To do this, you must plan in advance. Backup your apps by copying the contents of your “Mobile Applications” folder to a separate location. This folder is usually located in the “My Music/iTunes…..iTunes Media” of a computer with a Windows based operating system. A process of deleting the new version of the app and then dragging a copy of the original version of the app into the iTunes library is required to complete the process. Look online for tutorials on the subject, as this is only a quick description of how it works.
Listed below is a description of things to consider when buying a guitar for yourself or someone else. Each player’s age, height, skills, and interests should be taken into account when purchasing an instrument. It is important to mention that the main determining factor for proficiency on any instrument is the musician’s practice and persistence. If you want your guitar to sound good, practice as often as possible.
Guitars for Children – Under 4’7” Height
3/4th Size Electric Guitar
Sometimes categorized as a mini, short scale, or travel guitar. I recommend electric guitars because they use lighter gauge (thinner) strings, of which requires less hand strength to press on the frets.
For parents who don’t like the idea of their child playing an electric guitar because it can be played at a loud volume, there is always the option of listening to the instrument thru headphones instead of a speaker.
Alternatives for Children
3/4th Size Acoustic Guitar
Sometimes categorized as a mini, short scale, or travel guitar. Some teachers argue that the extra pressure it takes to hold down on the heavier gauge strings of the acoustic guitar is beneficial, because it builds hand strength. I believe it can also lead to discouragement and frustration, because if the frets aren’t held with enough force, then the notes will have a tone that rattles and buzzes.
3/4th Size Classical Guitar
This instrument uses nylon (plastic) strings, which are more forgiving, because they do not “cut” into the player’s fingertips. The problem is that these instruments typically have a wider neck, so it is difficult to reach across the fretboard, especially for youngsters with smaller hands.
Pre-Teenage to Adult Beginners
Almost any basic full sized electric or acoustic guitar is suitable for the beginning guitarist. People who are of small stature (especially girls/women) who are considering an acoustic guitar might look at purchasing an instrument with a slim-line (slim-body) design. Acoustic guitars that can be plugged in and amplified are known as acoustic/electric guitars. They are a good, yet more expensive option, for beginner students. Tuning the guitar can be a hassle for an inexperienced player, so it’s worth it to consider purchasing an acoustic guitar with a built in tuner (there are not very many electric guitars with the option of a built in tuner).
Many guitars that have been exposed to years of neglected will need to be adjusted or repaired before they are in suitable condition for a beginner to learn on. In other words, that old guitar that you discovered in your attic or you bought at a yard sale might not be best thing for a beginner student.
Intermediate (under $500)
If you buy one of these instruments you might be paying extra to have a name brand instrument that has a reputation for quality. The price might reflect cosmetic enhancements. Acoustic guitars in this price range often come with electronic pickups and/or a built in tuner. At this cost, acoustic guitars tops should be selected from quarter-sawn pieces of wood (these guitars are called “solid top”) as opposed to laminate or slab cut. On electric guitars, the extra cost might get you more reputable pickups.
Expert/Advanced (over $500)
In my opinion, instruments in this category cost much more than you get out of them. In other words, it takes practice, not an expensive instrument to make you sound like an excellent player. Nonetheless, expensive guitars are manufactured under pristine conditions with accurate attention paid to the smallest details. The precision that is used to construct these instruments makes for improved playability and sound quality. These guitars also often have fancy inlays or other ornamental designs that add to the cost, so you often get caught paying not for just improved functionality, but appearance.
Beginners can generally overlook these options. People who have some basic knowledge of the guitar could consider an instrument with one of these features.
Guitars that have this design function with a spring-loaded bridge of which accommodates a whammy/tremolo bar. The popular Fender Stratocaster is designed with this type of bridge. Using a whammy/tremolo bar will make the guitar go out of tune, therefore it can be frustrating for most beginners, because they are not skilled at re-tuning their instrument. If a beginner really wants the Stratocaster design, then I would advise them to remove/unscrew the whammy/tremolo bar from the instrument. The springs that are hidden under the bridges of this type of guitar get stretched out and need to be replaced, so you always have the issue of added maintenance with this design.
Floyd Rose System
This style of locking bridge/nut/tuners is designed to keep guitars with spring-loaded bridges in tune. This design is complicated and maintenance can be a nightmare, so purchasing one of these is not for the faint of heart.
Acoustic Guitar with a Cutaway
There is an indentation at the body of this guitar near the upper frets of which allows the player to access the very high notes of the instrument.
Duel Transducer Acoustic/Electric Guitar
These instruments have both a microphone (sound sensitive) and a piezo (touch sensitive) pickup. You can control the amount that each transducer is heard with separate volume controls designated for each pickup.
3/4th Size Travel Guitar
Sometimes categorized as a mini, or a short scale guitar. They are great for airline travel, because they can be used as a carry-on and they fit in the overhead compartment of commercial airplanes.
This type of guitar uses nylon (plastic) strings, which makes for a soft tone. It also has a wider neck, which makes it easier to perform fingerpicking arrangements.
12 String Guitar
This acoustic instrument is played like a six string guitar. Each of the six strings is paired with another string that produces the same note or a note that is an octave higher in pitch.
Semi-Hollow Body/Hollow Body Guitars
These electric guitars create a “classic” clean tone with some of the characteristics of a solid bodied electric guitar.
These guitars look cool but are a bit awkward to hold, so be prepared.
7 String Guitars
This is an electric guitar used primarily by heavy metal musicians. This instrument has an extra low pitch ‘B’ string.
These are low-pitch guitars tuned a perfect fourth or fifth below a normal guitar.
The Gibson Robot and the Gibson Dark Fire are stock guitars that tune themselves, but you can have almost any guitar retrofitted to have an automatic tuning system.
This is an instructional instrument that is plugged into your computer. The fretboard of the guitar lights-up and guides the player thru songs/exercises/scales. Fretlight guitars are well worth the money for any student who is a self-motivated learner.
Inspecting a Guitar Before a Purchase
Look for cracks, especially where the neck of the guitar joins the body. The action (the distance the strings are from the fretboard) is something you want to feel comfortable with. I always inspect the neck to make sure it is straight or slightly concave (from headstock to soundhole/pickups). I want to make sure the neck is not twisted in reference to the low and high strings. The frets should be symmetrical and evenly spaced. I play every note of the guitar that I’m thinking of purchasing by moving thru a “chromatic exercise”. I also like to have someone else play the guitar, so I can make sure I like the sound of it when I’m standing from the standpoint of an audience member. If I’m testing an electric guitar I play it thru a small amplifier with no effects or processing, because expensive amplifiers etc. will make any guitar sound great, but simple equipment will not. I also wiggle the guitar cable where it meets the insert jack of the instrument and listen for crackling sounds. I give the volume/tone control knobs a hard turn, beyond their limits, to make sure they are not loose, while I also listen for functionality and crackling.
Electric Guitar Pickups
Single Coil Pickup
Fender guitars are well known for this design.
The single coil pickup has a “primitive” design using single rows of pickups: magnet(s) coiled in wire. They provide the player with a clean/clear/brite tone, but many guitar players use this clean tone only as a start point. They then layer effects such as distortion, phasing, or echo to their sound to make it more interesting. These guitars are more sensitive to ground noise and other wireless interference. Decades ago, this made it difficult to use these instruments in pristine environments such as recording studios. They now have electronic processors that “cut” out the noise before it is recorded.
Gibson guitars are known for this design.
The humbucking pickup was designed to alleviate the extraneous noise problems that are found with guitars that use single coil pickups. Two single coil pickups are placed in tandem with each other. Because of their proximity to each other, they “electronically” cancel out the noise that is inherent with single coil pickups. They also have a warm/rich/deep tone that some guitarists prefer.
My opinion is that a guitar amplifier (the amp) is the most important factor that contributes to the sound of an electric guitar. The guitar amplifier has two separate aspects of its design that make it function. One section is actually called the amplifier. This component can function using either of two types of circuitry: Tube or Solid-State electronics. The amplifier increases the voltage of the guitar’s signal to make it large enough to drive the second component of the guitar amp: The Speaker. An amplifier’s power is measured in watts. A 30watt solid-state amplifier will usually give the guitarist enough volume to perform with a kit drummer (the loudest instrument in the band). A tube amp rated at a lower power level (15watts) is usually enough compete with the volume levels of most drummers.
Tube amps operate by transforming voltages using cathode ray vacuum tubes and give a “warm tone” to the instrument. This design is often preferred because of the vintage tone that it provides, but tubes are similar in design to incandescent light bulbs and need to be replaced ever few years. Other components of tube amplifiers need regular maintenance, and it takes technical skills to service your amp, so if you buy a tube amp, you should expect to have some occasional maintenance issues.
The main operating feature of this design relies on the transistor to alter voltage levels of the guitar signal. These amplifiers sound “crisp” and “clear” when compared to their tube amp counterparts. These types of amps don’t require general maintenance.
The speaker(s) is the second component of a guitar amp to consider. Most guitar amps are sold as combo amps (combination amplifiers), meaning the amplifier and speaker(s) share the same enclosure (closed or open back), but they can also be found as separate units. In this case the amplifier is sold separately and it is described as the “head” and the speaker(s) is called the “cabinet”. Most combo amps/cabinets come with a configuration that consists of one, two, or four speakers. Speakers come in 10” and/or 12” sizes.
Inspecting an Amplifier for Before a Purchase
You can save a lot of money by purchasing a used guitar amp. Keep in mind, that solid-state amps are much easier to diagnose. To inspect an amplifier, I play it at a reasonable volume on a clean (not distorted) channel and listen for crackles, pops and hissing. I wiggle the section of the guitar cable that attaches to the amp and listen for crackling. I turn the volume and tone controls and listen for crackling/cutting-out. I inspect the condition of the power cable and wiggle the section of the cable that leads to the amp. If the amp turns off or cuts out when I perform this test, then there is a problem with the power cable or a connecting point. I test the gain/distortion channels and turn the control knobs that coincide with those channels. I do all of these while playing my instrument and while my instrument is idle. I also set the volume at a reasonable and a very high level and perform while listening for rattles that might be coming from loose pieces within the amplifier/speaker.
These are an essential addition for your guitar if you intend to use a strap and stand up while playing your instrument. A strap without a locking mechanism often comes unexpectedly un-hooked and falls off the player’s shoulder. This device solves that problem.
Hard Shell Case
Although it is bulky, it is the ultimate in travel protection.
A high quality bag/backpack (beware of cheap ones flimsy ones) makes for convenient travel with your instrument.
This is an essential accessory that every beginner should have. The kind that is designed to be clipped to the headstock of the instrument is one of the better options. Acoustic instruments can be purchased that have built in tuners and electric guitar players have the option of using the tuner that is built into a Multi-Effects Pedal.
Acoustic Pickup (aftermarket)
This is inserted in the sound hole of an acoustic guitar to make it possible to plug it into an amplifier. It usually functions much like an electric guitar with magnetic pickups rather than an actual microphone or piezo pickup.
Picks: Any standard sized medium thickness pick will work. For children, I recommend smaller sized picks with medium thickness. I recommend that my students avoid gimmicks such as picks that you slip onto your thumb, like a ring, to hold it in place.
Effects Pedals and Multi-Effects Pedals
Effects pedals change the characteristics of the sound of the guitar. Some (but not most) provide exclusive functions that have nothing to do with the sound of the instrument such as a tuner, drum machine, or sampler. Most effects pedals provide the player with sounds such as reverb(echo), distortion(heavy metal), or phasing(synthesizer). I often recommend Mult-Effects Pedals to my students because they include many effects, a tuner, and often a drum machine/metronome. They can also cost as much as a stand-alone effects pedal, but they have many more functions.
Martin, Taylor, Takamine, and Yamaha are reputable brands. Other popular brands include Washburn, Ibanez, Alvarez, Fender, Seagull, and Gibson/Epiphone. Fishman electronics are one of the most reputable brands of electronics for an acoustic guitar.
Fender and Gibson are the leaders in the electric guitar market. Paul Reed Smith (PRS) might be considered a worthwhile competitor. Other popular brands include Ibanez, Epiphone (Gibson), Schecter, Jackson, Dean Markley, Jay Turser, and ESP.
Pickups for Electric Guitars:
EMG Pickups or Seymour Duncan are popular stock and after-market brands.
Fender (American) and Marshall (British) are the two leading brands in the electric guitar amplifier market. Line 6, Peavey, Behringer, Kustom, Vox, and Crate are some less popular options. Fishman is the leader in acoustic guitar amplifier technology.
Celestion and Jenson speakers are popular after-market replacement brands.
Effects Pedals and Multi-Effects Pedals
The leading brands are Boss and DigiTech. Other popular brands include Zoom, Line 6, Behringer, Vox, and Roland.
Purchasing an Instrument from Individuals
Generally speaking, the least expensive option for purchasing an instrument is thru an individual who advertises locally on a website such as craigslist.org. Many people buy guitars with the intention of learning to play the instrument, but they do not end up pursuing their goals. They often sell these practically unused instruments for much less than the original cost. You can easily find a decent acoustic guitar for about $50 thru an individual.
Purchasing an Instrument at a Store
The benefit of purchasing a guitar at a store is that they stock a large selection of instruments that you can choose from. In most cases, they stand behind the quality of their instruments, so if there is a problem with the guitar, then they will usually do what they can to resolve it. The personality of the sales people at the store can be something to consider. Are you comfortable with their opinions and sales tactics?
Local Music Stores in the Seacoast Area of New Hampshire
Exeter Music – They supply a very good selection of beginner guitars and intermediate instruments. You can also rent a guitar here with a percentage of the money spent on the rental going toward the purchase of the instrument.
Local Pawn Shops – Very low prices but limited selection and limited guarantees.
Earcraft – Locally owned store that has the inventory of a large chain.
Guitar Center – This national chain is owned by Musicians Friend. They have a very large selection of options and low prices.
Purchasing an Instrument Online
You don’t get to actually check the guitar out before you buy it when purchasing instruments online. Returning guitars is a hassle. For this reason, I almost never buy guitars thru online vendors, but I do purchase almost all of my musical electronics this way.
Musicians Friend – Excellent selection and outstanding prices. Customer service is average to say the least. The product reviews that buyers post on this website can be used as legitimate guides for your purchase.
Sweetwater – Excellent selection and good prices. They pride themselves with excellent customer service. I’ve been assigned the same sales representative for over ten years!!! He calls me after I receive every purchase to make sure that I’m happy with my order. Their customer product reviews are not legitimate, as they obviously delete the negative ones.
Ebay – If you really know what you want, and you’re familiar with using ebay, then this can be a very inexpensive option.
The idea for the consumer is to find the right balance of cost and suitability. Doing some research before you make a purchase allows you to have consumer confidence, and with that, you can be comfortable with your final decision. Having a friend shop with you who is more knowledgeable in regards to guitars can also help you make your decision. Like I mentioned before, no matter what instrument a guitarist ends up with, the ultimate thing that makes him/her sound better on the guitar is diligence and practice!!
As a live performer, a common problem that I encounter is that fact that it is sometimes difficult to distinguish your own voice/instrument from the other sounds onstage. I find that hearing your own vocals onstage is especially problematic.
Amplified instrumentalist and drummers play inherently loud instruments, so they usually have do not have issues with their own stage volume. Vocalists rely on stage monitors to hear what they’re singing. The onstage monitor mix is often less than suitable for the vocalist. The vocalist is at the mercy of the sound engineer, and if the mix is not perfect, then the singer will have trouble doing their job.
A perfect solution would be a personal vocal/instrument wireless monitoring system. The design would have a small device/adapter (wireless transmitter/splitter) that you could attach to a microphone. The contraption would spit the signal from the microphone. One signal would be sent to your wireless receiver and the other signal would go out of the device and into the microphone cable.
Click the Diagram Below to Enlarge
I searched extensively, and could not find this product. In ear wireless monitors are available with a less than ideal design. The least expensive of which is a Nady product, which sells for at least $150. I decided not to use the Nady item after hearing complaints of inherent noise, required modifications, and the fact that transmitter that needs AC power. Every other comparable product has a starting price of $400. I also looked into bluetooth, common stereo, karaoke, and even infrared wireless products to see if I could configure something similar to what I imagined, but I decided against them for various reasons.
I ended up purchasing an Azden WM-Pro Wireless System, which included a wireless transmitter and receiver, both of which are battery operated. With the WM-Pro, an ART Xdirect DI box, and a few adapters, I managed to create an adequate item to serve my purpose. The wireless transmitter can receive its signal directly from my onstage microphone or thru the insert link of my mixing board. In both cases, the signal is sent thru my DI box to the wireless transmitter and then to my bodypack wireless receiver. The earpiece output of the WM-Pro receiver is a mono signal, so I use an adapter to make it stereo. The signal is then sent thru a volume control device and finally into my Phillips Noise Canceling Earbuds, which uses a built in amplifier (powered by a AAA battery). The amplifier ensures that my headphone/earbud levels will be high enough to compete with typical onstage volume levels. Velcro holds all pieces of hardware together when need be.
The cost of all necessary items are as follows:
Azden WM-Pro Wireless System = $150
ART Xdirect DI Box = $40
Phillips Noise Cancelling Earbuds = $30
Various Adapters/Cables = $20
The total cost for me was $240. The Nady system would have ultimately cost about the same, but it would not have functioned as well because of the background noise that it creates and its lack of battery operation. High-end wireless monitors start at a cost of $400, but their transmitters cannot function on batteries. I like the idea of transmitters that operate on batteries because you often do not have the time to find electrical outlets and extension chords when you are performing, especially when you are sharing the stage with other bands/performers. The only complaint I have with the current system that I’m using is that distortion is heard when VERY high volumes are applied to the microphone.